When I spent a week in Athens, New York, across the river from Hudson, I naturally looked up where I might find good sourdough in my general area of the “Catskills”, not realizing until after I had placed my order, that the Catskills are actually quite a large area. And so we found ourselves driving west, an hour and a half, to Bovina, New York, population 633. The drive to Bovina was through beautiful, windy roads, alternating between pastures and forests, Trump signs not uncommon.

Russell's General Store, where Wilson bakes and also sells his bread from, felt like a weird microcosm of Brooklyn within Bovina. You wouldn’t think you’re in rural New York state.

Wilson’s country sourdough is one of the tastiest sourdoughs I’ve had in the east coast. Mild, grainy, and very moist on the inside, with a delicious, dark brown crust on the outside. I really enjoyed eating this plain, with good butter.

Wilson’s Bread is sold at Russell’s General Store in Bovina, and you can order ahead of time online. $10 for a medium-large loaf.

Russell's General Store is at 2009 Co Rd 6, Bovina Center, NY 13740